Cheap 90° Shower Curtain Rod

We inherited a strange master bathroom when we bought this house.  We love “character” in homes and that usually means some cracks, pealing and odd moments.  With that being said,  I am a FIRM believer that you should spend a few years with those “odd” moments before ripping them out and putting in that perfect bathroom you found in the latest magazine!  This DIY blog post is about how I started off trying to save a few bucks and ended up falling madly IN LOVE with one of my “odd” moments.First, let me tell you about my master bathroom.  It contains one brass sink that when cleaned, looks like a golden vase,  an ornate single vanity with limited storage, and a huge open concept shower with a step down.  The last was very “odd”.  The only thing my mind could rap around was enclosing it with what always comes out to be expensive glass… so I followed my rule and let it stay for a while.  It never settled right with me to spend so much money (glass enclosures run $1500-$3000) in a bathroom that I didn’t design myself and therefore don’t really love.  Another problem was that they had laid tile extending out past the basin of the shower… tile that I did NOT want to drill an expensive curtain rod into.  I wondered home improvement stores, searched online and asked around but could never find a 90 degree angled shower curtain that would prevent water from spraying my entire bathroom and stop me from feeling like I’m shaving my legs out in the open.  There were a few options that might have worked but they were expensive ($300+)  and required us to drill into the tile surround.  And then the lightbulb turned on…  PVC piping can be formed into all types of shapes… including a 90* angle.  And I was sure there were hooks that could screw into the ceiling instead of my tile (much easier to patch if I ended up hating it).  The following tutorial is how to make a beautiful shower curtain rod and curtain for only about $45 ($20 for the rod and $25 for the curtains and hooks).My shower entrance measured ??? by ?? but measure yours and make adjustments where nesseccary.

What you’ll need for the rod:
-one 8 foot length of half inch PVC piping
-one 90* “elbow” of PVC to fit a 1/2 ” pipe
-two end stops of PVC to fit a 1/2 ” pipe
-four 1/2″ screw in hooks (hooks with threading on one end)
-one bottle of desired spray paint
-four small hollow wall mounts that will fit the hooks threading
-two sticky hooks (for the pull backs)
For the curtains I used:
-two boxes of curtain hooks
-two white fabric shower curtain LINERS. It looks like fabric and costs a little more than the cheap plastic ones (about $7 per curtain) but then I didn’t need to buy expensive fabic for a curtain and I actually wanted a simple textured white curtain.
1.  Pry apart the hooks until the piping can easily push into them without struggle.  Just use two sets of pliers and open the hook a little more.
2.  Measure your opening.  Subtract 3 inches from the lengths to account for the stops and 90* elbow attachments… both will add to the over all length.
3. Cut your two pieces of PVC piping.  You can use a PVC pipe cutter or just a simple saw.  The edges don’t need to be perfect… they’ll be covered with the attachments.
4. Double check…  put the two pieces together with the 90* elbow attachment and then put the stops at either end.  I was able to place the assembled  rod on the ground at the opening of my shower to make sure it would fit when afixed to the ceiling.  Make any additional cuts needed to get your perfect fit.
5.  Lay all of your pieces (2 rods, 2 stops, 90* elbow attachment, hooks with threading and curtain hooks (if you were not able to buy them in your desired color already).
6.  Now you’re ready to spray.  Spray a light coat of spray paint on the first side.  Let it dry completely before turning over and spraying the other side.  Repeat for a second coat.  I wanted mine to look like antique bronze.  I was able to find a spray paint that look similar to the rest of the fixtures in our bathroom.  Just to save some of the expensive metal spray paint,  I first painted a layer of black spray paint that I already had laying around the house.  Then I coated everything with a layer of the metal colored spray paint.
7.  After everything is VERY dry,  assemble the pieces again.
8.  Stand on a latter and make pencil marks where the four hooks should go.  I held the assembled rod up to the ceiling and made my marks as close to the joints (where the end and 90° attachments and piping met) as possible.
9.  Drill holes and insert your hollow wall mounts.  They should be very snug so you’ll probably have to pound them in a little.
10.  Screw your hooks into the wall mounts.  You obviously have do not have the curtain up yet like my photo but you get the idea.    I turned my hooks facing into the shower so it was a cleaner look on the outside.  And notice how I measured so that the rod would hang just inside the tile.
11.  Pop your assembled pipping into the hooks.  Touch up with paint if needed.
Now for making your curtains:
12.  Hold your curtains (aka fabric liners) up along the length of pipe and make a mark of where to trim. Each prepackaged curtain has holes at the top for your curtain hooks. Extend your measurement about 2 inches past one extra predone hole.  Your curtain does not need to be a perfect width of your opening and this will give you a little more volume when closing the curtains.
13.  Trim your curtains and then hem the edge so that all edges are finished.
14.  Most curtains, since you are hanging them from the ceiling with this tutorial,  will not be long enough.  Hang your short curtain and take a measurement from the bottom of the curtain to the floor.  You’ll need to cut and sew this much fabric to the bottom of your curtain.  I was able to use the excess that I had previously cut off the width of my curtain but you might need to buy another curtain to acheive the length you need.  Either way,  just measure, cut, and sew the piece onto the bottom of your curtain,  finishing any raw edges.  I just put the cut edge of my extra legth behind the nice finished edge of my top portion and sewed.  You can’t even tell and it adds a nice stripe effect towards the bottom of my curtain.
15.  Before you put up the sewing machine,  make two pull backs using your scrap material.  I was able to trim carefully along the folded top seam of the scrap curtains and use the grommets that were already there (without even sewing).  Either way,  make two pulls that are about 18″ long by 3″ wide with finished edges.  Either make slits in either ends or use grommets so that they can loop over the hooks.  You can buy grommet kits at most craft stores.
16.  Determine where you would like your pulls to be and stick your hooks to the walls… no screwing required (remember how I DID NOT want to damage any of the surrounding tile).
17.  Hang your curtain again and enjoy!
Total cost was about 8$ for the PVC stuff,  $7 for the hooks, $5 for the spray paint,  $14 for the curtains,  $10 for the curtain hooks,  and I already had the hooks for the pull backs.

Easy Removable Throw Pillow Cover


26” Ikea pillow (about $5 on sale)

25” x 25” cut of fabric for the front of your pillow cover (front) ($13 per yard for mine)

25” x 40” cut of fabric for the back of your pillow cover (back) (remnants from another project)

A spool and bobbin of coordinating thread ($3)



A sewing machine…  this project requires VERY BASIC sewing skills but you do need to know how to tread your machine  and run a piece of fabric through.   Don’t be afraid to learn if you don’t know all ready.  Sewing is so easy and can save you tons of money in the long run.  Plus, the satisfaction of knowing you made ‘that’  is priceless.  Anyways,  who wants to have the exact same pillow as everyone else from the department store?!

Side note:  I have decided to use a more expensive printed fabric only on the front of my pillow and save money by using a cheaper solid fabric on the back. My solid fabric is tan on the front side and navy on the back side.

1. Wash your fabric before cutting out the needed pieces and thread your sewing machine with a coordinating thread.

2.  Fold the longer back piece in half so that it measures 20” x 25”.  Press the fold nice and sharp and make sure the fabric is laying flat. Now cut along the fold so that when you’re done you have two matching 20” x 27” pieces.  Everything doesn’t have to be SO perfect so I use this step to save me time.  Now you have two identical ‘back’ pieces.  Later,  we will over lap these back pieces (like the back of a pillow sham) to give us an easy to remove and wash cover.

3.  Iron all three pieces!  I used to skip this step but if I’ve learned one thing from my gramma’s beautiful sewing projects… prep work is the KEY!  So iron!  It will make all the pinning and sewing easier and your finished product will turn out better!

4. While you are still at the ironing board…lay one of the back pieces face down and fold back one of the long sides (25 inch side) by about one inch. This will create a finished edge on the opening of the pillow cover. Iron this fold down flat. Repeat for the other 20” x 25” piece.   It doesn’t matter which of the long sides you fold back so just choose one side on each of your back pieces.  In the third photo below,  I have my two back pieces face down so you can see the folded back edge.

5.  Now we put the pieces together.  Lay your front square piece of fabric face up. Lay one of you ‘finished edge’ back pieces face down on top of this square piece. Make sure the finished edge is towards the middle and then line up the left sides of this back piece with the front square’s left side.   Line up your second ‘finished edge’ piece on the right side and make sure the finished edge is towards the middle.  Your hemmed pieces should now be over lapping about 9”. Pin the perimeter of your front and back pieces together.

6.  Come in half an inch and sew around the entire pillow case pulling out he pins as you go.   A few tips as you sew:  Sew right over the finished edges of the back fabric.  When you get to the corner, just turn the fabric 90 degrees and continue sewing.  Pull the fabric tight behind and in front of the needle… this will prevent the fabrics from bunching up.   Make sure and do a back stitch at the beginning and then end of the sewing… this is a standard sewing technique where you go forward in your sewing and then come backwards,  stitching about 8-10 stitches in the opposite direction before continuing the sew forward again.  This prevents the stitching from unraveling.

7.  After you have sewn around the entire square of the cover,  turn the cover inside out and stuff your pillow inside.  Make sure to work the corners of the pillow into the corners of the pillow cover.

8.  ENJOY!



If anyone tries this tutorial, please post on the blog how it went?? I would love to get some feed back (good or bad is all welcomed!). THANKS!!!

Padded Headboard with Nailhead trim

There are a million tutorials on how to make an upholstered headboard on the internet but it’s seriously so easy that everyone should try it!  With this blog, you’ll learn how to make more than just the typical rectangle of wood wrapped in batting and fabric.  You’ll learn how to add some interest to the shape,  thicken it up to make it more substancial and trim it out with really easy nailheads!  This project takes between 3-6 hours to complete


plywood: 3/4 thick and 4 foot by 8 foot (buy the cheapest you can find. Our’s was about $20.)

fabric (look for sales and coupons for your local fabric stores.  Mine was about 2$ per yard and you’ll only need about 3 yards.  Standard fabric is between 44 and 60 inches in width (we will turn our fabric sideways and use the width of the fabric for the height of our headboard).  Since my headboard is only 44 inches in height and our fabric was 54 inches wide,  it worked out perfect to only by 3 yards to run along the width of the headboard.  If your fabric is narrower than your desired headboard height,  you will have to buy double the amount of fabric and sew them together.)

batting: I went with one of the thicker options. It was about 60 inches wide so I only purchased 2 yards total ($4.20 per yard on sale)

nail tril on a spool (about $20)

1 inch screws (you’ll only need about 20 so don’t buy a huge package)

6 foot length of 2×4  ($5,  this is what we used to secure the headboard to our bed frame so if you plan on doing it a different way then don’t purchase)


-circular saw

-jig saw

-stapler and TONS of staples (like 1000)(any size staple length should work,  just make sure they work in your staple gun…. we might have had an issue with this initially 🙂 )

-electric screw driver

-hammer with sock covering it or a rubber mallot

-2 saw horses


-dining table or large table to craft on

-a yard length T ruler

– 24 inches of some form of string or yarn to use as a compass for circular cut outs in the corners


-1 tac for the compass
1. We made 8 cuts and 23 screws for this entire project. (It’s all about the stapler for this headboard) Prep work can make or break a project like this. So gather all of the tools, extension cords, have everything plugged in and set up before beginning.

2. First set up two saw horses a few feet apart and lay the plywood on top.

3. We have a queen size mattress and a wood bedframe that we previous made  (instructions to come later) that is 64.5 inches in width. We wanted our headboard 44″ inches in height. To make life easiest,  we cut a 4 inch piece off of the entire length of the board (the board was 48 inches wide and we wanted our head board to be 44 inches…  48-44=4 inches) Use the T ruler and make a straight line down the entire length of your board at this mark and cut using the circular saw.

4. Here is a diagram of how to cut the remainder of the wood.

5. You should now have 4 boards total   (4 pcs: Piece A) 44″ x 64.5″,  Piece B) 44″ x 15.75″,  Piece C) 44″ x 15.75″, Piece D) 4″ x 33″). One main headboard rectangle (piece A), and 3 other boards that we will use to add some bulk to the entire headboard and will be on the backside of the piece A. We will now cut the circle out of the corner of 3 of those pieces using the jig saw. With a pen and tac tied together with about 12 inches of string in between, place the tac in the upper outer corner of one of the 15.75 inch boards (piece B or C), hold the pen out as far as you can and draw the quarter circle.

6. Place this board on the saw horses and use the jig saw to cut this circle out.

7. Use the newly cut piece of board as a template for the other 15.75 inch board… place it on top and trace. Then cut.

8. We cut into the 15.75 inch boards first so that we could get warmed up before cutting into the big piece (piece A), which will be the piece in the front and therefore the most important.  The 15.75″ pieces will actually lay ON piece A,  making it two pieces of plywood thick.  When we are finished,  we will end up w/ 4 circular corners cut out in total ( 2 cut outs on piece A, and a single cut out on both piece B and C).  Now place the 2 already cut pieces onto the main board and use them as template to make marks on the larger board. Cut the circles out of the larger board (piece A).

9. Now it’s time to put the boards in the proper places, glue and screw them onto the large board. We lined up all three boards perfectly (pieces B and C go on the out and piece D is used along to top to join them and make the headboard seem thicker around the entire outter edge.  You might now say “but we didn’t add anything to the bottom to make it 2 pieces of wood thick” .  The short answer is that ‘it’s not going to show so who cares!’.    After laying the boards out properly, glue the boards in place with wood glue, then use 1 inch wood screws (4 per piece of wood) to secure the smaller pieces (B, C, D) to the large board (A).

10. YEY! The base is complete. Now drag it into your bedroom and hold it in place (preferably using some strong men) and make sure you like the height. If not,  cut a little off the bottom till you like it.

11. Now we prep the fabric. Iron your fabric! Don’t even think about wasting all this time constructing a headboard and then just staple on the sort-of wrinkle free fabric direct from the store… IRON! Maybe even STARCH! I had fabric that was 60 inches wide so I used that width for the height and then ran the 2.5 yards of fabric across (right to left) of the board… that way I didn’t have a seam. If you decide to make a giant sized headboard, you might need to sew two pieces of fabric together before starting this process.  Either way… IRON!

12. We used our dining room table as a working table but if you are concerned about scratching your’s, set up a folding table or even put a tarp on the floor. Then lay your fabric face down, batting then board (in that order). The front of the headboard (not the back side with screwed pieces) should be facing down.

13. Cut the batting and head board so that it hangs past the edge about 5 inches.

14. Now gather your staple gun and million staples (just make sure you have a lot) and start with the batting. I like to staple the batting completely and then staple the fabric second.  The fabric is a little tricky to get perfectly smooth (but do-able) so I think having it in its own step makes life easier.  Trying to staple the batting and the fabric ALL at once is not my recommendation.  I like to start with a single staple in the center bottom of the batting. Then pull taut the top and place a center staple there. Next, pull the sides taut and place a single staple in each. Now go back to the bottom and work your way out to the sides. I like to place a few staples across and then go back and work in more staples until there are staples every inch or less. After the bottom is finished, repeat these steps on the top and then the sides, take your time and check that the batting is nice and smooth on the front.

15. Once you get to the two circle cut outs… everything else should be taught and stapled. I like to cut down the center toward to the board. Then do a few more in rays out from the circle. This makes it easier to pull each piece tight around the cut out before stapling.

16. Now the batting is done… hold the board up and double check that the batting is smooth.

17. Now you are ready for the fabric. I do basically the exact same thing with the fabric as I did with the batting except I take more TIME! Really make sure it is smooth before continuing. At the circle cut outs, be very careful not to cut the “rays” too close to the wood or your cut fabric will show on the edge of your headboard.  Less is more and you can always cut more if you need to, you just want to make it easier to pull tight. At the corners, take your time to pull some of the fabric and get a perfect line at the edge of the board before stapling.

18. When you are finished, hold the board up and double check it’s how you like it. The best advice I can give is really evaluate if you are satisfied, if not, pull the nessessary staples out and try again! It’s that easy and you’ll be happier when you look at this headboard EVERY DAY!

19. You are almost finished! Time for nail trim. You can purchase nail trim at Jo-Ann’s and probably many other places that is a strand of nail heads and you only have to nail in every 6th nail. This helps make it look straight and it takes far less time. Start by unwinding the nail strand. We will work in 5 separate sections… right side, left side, top, right circle, left circle. Start by drawing a line around your head board where you’ll lay your nail heads. I measured 4 inches into my headboard and then drew a straight line with my t-ruler and a pencil (use a pencil so you can clean it off easier if you mess up or use a sewing chalk), stopping short of the circle cut out. To make the perfect round shape around your cut out, use one of the pieces of wood that was left over from this cut out, push it in about 4 inches and draw you line. After you have this perfectly layed out around your board you are ready to nail.

20. Start by holding your nail strip up to your board and measuring the side… between the circle and the bottom. Use sissors to cut the nail strip at the desired length. Make sure that you have one of the nails with a hole in it at the top by the circle cut out. This way you can end with a securing nail. The bottom can be a little short so that you can end with a securing nail as well. The shortness will not show behind your bed.

21. After you cut the nails to length, take your time to straighten the strip before nailing. The strip is rolled up and can also get a little kinked. I used a scrap piece of wood and lined the nails up with the edge untill it was a straight piece of nails. This makes it MUCH easier and straighter to line up on your headboard.

22. Now it’s time to lay the nail strip on your drawn line on the head board and carefully nail in the few securing nails. Use a rubber hammer or cover a hammer with a sock. Lay the strip down on your draw line and nail the end. Then nail the other end and make sure to double check your line is straigh before nailing each securing nail in between. Repeat for the rest of the headboard.

23. The last step is to either secure your headboard to your bed frame or to the wall. We used two 2x4s cut to about 2.4 feet long. We held the headboard in place (ours rested on the bed frame we had previously made), then screwed them up and down, overlapping from our bed frame up to the headboard. You could also scure it to the wall using piano hinges but we didn’t want to deal with that.

24. NOW YOUR DONE!!!! YEY! Lay in bed and ENJOY all the money you saved and the design that you created!